MOVEMENT
Coursework unit 1.3
The above theme is the title for your new photography unit. In this unit you will be focussed on capturing movment in many different forms. You will learn new skills and use these to create interesting and visually stimulateing work. The project will culminate in the production of 3 final outcomes that will be printed and exhibited around the school. You should aim to be ambitious in your final outcome presentation.
Capturing Movement - LevitationSET TASK 1 Using the work of Natsumi Hayashi (click on the image above to see website) as a starting point create a series of shots that demonstrate your ability to capture movement. The key to successful levitation is correct shutter speed but also how you use the model and any props that you want in the shot. In pairs try and create a number of interesting levitations shots SET TASK 2 - Homework Continue with the theme but try and be even more creative within your home enviroment. Take at least 30 shots that demonstrate your creative thinking and technical knowledge. |
Movement p2 from gholden1979 |
SET TASKS 3
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Movement from gholden1979 |
Capture movement between two places.
Zoom blur images by Dominic HarrisZoom Blur:
blur caused by activating the zoom feature on your lens while the shutter is open. NB. A similar effect can be achieved by physically moving your camera closer or further from a subject while shooting. There are three factors that are most important when using zoom blur:
Technique: The key to the image is getting the zooming action right. If the zoom is too obvious it may make an interesting image but it will disguise your subject. But if you don't zoom enough it will just look like a normal picture. Even though you can zoom either way most people choose to zoom out. Once the shutter opens, wait for a while (half to three quarters of the exposure) then in one fluid but quite fast movement, zoom out. That way, you get a get a bit of definition into the subject before you blur it. A small aperture (around f/22) is needed to allow a slow enough shutter speed and you should use ISO 100 or 200. Blur can also be created in Photoshop see powerpoint on the right HOMEWORK - Shoot at least 20 shoots that demonstrate experimentation with the lens blur effect. Try different subject matters and make sure to write down the setting that you have used on the camera. |
Zoom blur from gholden1979
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Movement of a figure
In today's task you will focus on the work of Francesca Woodman. She is famous for creating ghost-like images where the subject is blurred against a sharp background. Woodman is the main subject in her photographs and her work is incredibly emotive particularly when you discover that she committed suicide at the age of 27.
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How to edit your Movement of the figure images like Francesca Woodman
Don't forget to screen grab:
Command / Shift / 3 for the whole desk top
Command / Shift 4 to select the part you want to capture.
Command / Shift / 3 for the whole desk top
Command / Shift 4 to select the part you want to capture.
Extension
Ghostimages from gholden1979
Extension task - Take two separate images (person and a place) and use the photoshop techniques demonstrated in the powerpoint opposite to create a spooky ghost-like picture. You can also experiment with the images below:
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Portrait Disorder - Giffs and Cinemagraphs
When a photographer takes a portrait they would normally aim to create a sharp crisp image that has a realistic likeness to the person. However this is not always the case the task below aims is to create a series of disordered portrait. Task one Set up your camera on a tripod or in a set posistion. Get your model to sit down and ask them to look directly into the camera.The model must sit in the studio and move their head from side to side. Each time they move their head take an photograph of their face. Task two Take the images and then following the instructions in the handout and slideshow create a head movement gift. cc Look at the work of Romain Laurent and create an artist section analysing at least three of his images in full Homework Using the same technique take a series of portrait images at home that can be turned into a second response portrait giff. |
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cinemagraph.docx | |
File Size: | 17 kb |
File Type: | docx |
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Click to set custom
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Click here for a GiF tutorial.
resequence.jpg | |
File Size: | 636 kb |
File Type: | jpg |
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LIGHT PAINTING
Step 1: Preparations - what you will need
Darkness (a dark room or from sunset to sunrise)
A lot of patience and patient friends/collegues
A camera (any camera will work but I recommend a digital SLR),
A video editing application to put it all together into a video sequence
Step 2: The basic principle
The basic principle when it comes to light painting is that you capture the light as it moves from one point in space and time to another. To do this you need to set your camera to full manual mode. Then you set the exposure time to at least a few seconds, we ended up using between 5 and 20 seconds depending how much we had going on in each frame.
To get a sharp image you will want to fix the camera to something, a decent tripod will get the job done. To avoid differences in focus set the focus manually and keep it set for each animation sequence (you can still adjust it manually as your subject moves / do a focus pull). another thing to try is to move the camera a tiny bit in one direction for each frame, in a straight line or rotationg around your subject, creating the illusion of camera motion.
An added bonus of using a still camera is the amazing image quality you can get even out of the most basic digital camera compared to a consumer video-camera, you could make your end video in full HD resolution.
Step 3: Trial & error
Stop motion animation involves taking a bunch of still frames and making an image sequence that appears to be moving in real time. Try drawing the outlines of an object or a person, you will get the best results by pointing the LED/flashlight in the direction of the camera lens at all times.
To create the illusion of motion try painting a part of the image at a time until you have a complete drawing. Another technique we used extensively was using people as placeholders (in our case the band members), and having them move slightly for each frame/shot to keep the continuity. If you or someone in your team has a talent for keeping track of where they have been drawing in the previous frames, go ahead and draw it freehand.
Make sure you preview your results every so often by flipping through the images you have shot for a sequence, using your cameras display will be the easiest way of doing it but transferring the images over to a computer and making video sequence will give you a more accurate idea of what the end result will be.
Another thing to try is to make regular time-lapse sequences and spice them up with some light painting.
Step 4:Putting it together
I used After Effects for creating video files of the images that were easy to work with in Final Cut Pro. These steps require that you have a basic understanding of how to use these applications, I'm sure other software could be used with a similar result.
- Import the images belonging to one sequence as an image sequence in After Effects.
- Create a composition with the resolution you would like to work with (I chose 1280x720)
- Add the image sequence to the composition and make adjustments to your likings (scale, color correction, change blending modes...)
- Render the composition to a format that is suitable for your video editing app of choice. I found that exporting to Apple ProRes 422 in 1280x720 worked flawlessly and the end video was virtually indistinguishable from the original jpeg stills (other than the lower resolution)
- Import the resulting video clips into your video editing software and get creative, sync up to a music piece or what ever you feel like.
Enjoy, and let me know if you have any questions or if you find this instructable helpful and make something of your own!
Step 1: Preparations - what you will need
Darkness (a dark room or from sunset to sunrise)
A lot of patience and patient friends/collegues
A camera (any camera will work but I recommend a digital SLR),
A video editing application to put it all together into a video sequence
Step 2: The basic principle
The basic principle when it comes to light painting is that you capture the light as it moves from one point in space and time to another. To do this you need to set your camera to full manual mode. Then you set the exposure time to at least a few seconds, we ended up using between 5 and 20 seconds depending how much we had going on in each frame.
To get a sharp image you will want to fix the camera to something, a decent tripod will get the job done. To avoid differences in focus set the focus manually and keep it set for each animation sequence (you can still adjust it manually as your subject moves / do a focus pull). another thing to try is to move the camera a tiny bit in one direction for each frame, in a straight line or rotationg around your subject, creating the illusion of camera motion.
An added bonus of using a still camera is the amazing image quality you can get even out of the most basic digital camera compared to a consumer video-camera, you could make your end video in full HD resolution.
Step 3: Trial & error
Stop motion animation involves taking a bunch of still frames and making an image sequence that appears to be moving in real time. Try drawing the outlines of an object or a person, you will get the best results by pointing the LED/flashlight in the direction of the camera lens at all times.
To create the illusion of motion try painting a part of the image at a time until you have a complete drawing. Another technique we used extensively was using people as placeholders (in our case the band members), and having them move slightly for each frame/shot to keep the continuity. If you or someone in your team has a talent for keeping track of where they have been drawing in the previous frames, go ahead and draw it freehand.
Make sure you preview your results every so often by flipping through the images you have shot for a sequence, using your cameras display will be the easiest way of doing it but transferring the images over to a computer and making video sequence will give you a more accurate idea of what the end result will be.
Another thing to try is to make regular time-lapse sequences and spice them up with some light painting.
Step 4:Putting it together
I used After Effects for creating video files of the images that were easy to work with in Final Cut Pro. These steps require that you have a basic understanding of how to use these applications, I'm sure other software could be used with a similar result.
- Import the images belonging to one sequence as an image sequence in After Effects.
- Create a composition with the resolution you would like to work with (I chose 1280x720)
- Add the image sequence to the composition and make adjustments to your likings (scale, color correction, change blending modes...)
- Render the composition to a format that is suitable for your video editing app of choice. I found that exporting to Apple ProRes 422 in 1280x720 worked flawlessly and the end video was virtually indistinguishable from the original jpeg stills (other than the lower resolution)
- Import the resulting video clips into your video editing software and get creative, sync up to a music piece or what ever you feel like.
Enjoy, and let me know if you have any questions or if you find this instructable helpful and make something of your own!